How to: sancerre
Why everyone loves it and what to explore instead
I’ve worked in wine in 3 states, in all 4 seasons, at all levels of “fanciness” across retail and restaurants. The one thing every place has in common? Everyone asks for Sancerre.
Sancerre is a place, though when people ask for it, they’re typically asking for the white wine that comes from Sancerre - a white wine made of 100% Sauvignon Blanc, in a fresh, dry, and herbaceous style.
Sancerre is an appellation in the Loire Valley, a wine region in Western France. By law, you’ll only ever find 2 grapes here: Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir is relatively rare and can be made into red wine or rose wine.
Sancerre will always be Sauvignon Blanc.
It will always be dry.
It will hardly ever be the cheapest OR the most expensive option.
It will be crowd pleasing.
You will be able to pronounce it.
What to buy when you’re exhausted of Sancerre (or when you’ve been priced out of it):
Quincy or Pouilly-Fumé - The other Sauvignon Blancs of the Loire Valley! Quincy and Pouilly-Fumé are Sancerre’s neighbors with slightly less famous names. The wines feel almost identical, at far lower prices.
Sauvignon Blanc from Austria - Sattlerhoff, a winery in Südsteiermark, Austria, makes wines that are like Sancerre but with the volume turned all the way up. This wine is extremely citrusy, extremely herbaceous, extremely dry. Sancerre made extreme.
Sauvignon Blanc from Italy - Along the Austrian coast of Northern Italy, beautiful Sauvignon Blanc is made. Cantina Terlano makes beautiful examples, with slightly more body and a touch of delicious bitterness absent in traditional Sancerre.
Albariño - Do Ferreiro makes quintessential Albariño up in Galicia, Northwestern Spain along the Atlantic coastline. These wines are inexpensive, and offer a touch more body and a smidge lower acidity than Sancerre, while delivering the same freshness and fruitiness.
Gavi - Ok, fine, they got me. Gavi flew me to Italy and put me up for 5 days to show me around the region and introduce me to the wines. They are not paying me to write this, but the overwhelming consensus on the trip was that Sancerre drinkers would love the wines. Villa Sparina is available everywhere and fits the bill.
Riesling from Austria - Riesling is capable of making gorgeous sweet wines, but if you’re looking for something Sancerre-like, stick with dry styles. I love Prager Rieslings from the Wachau.
Currently - If what you love is crisp and cold Sauvignon Blanc, and that’s why you like Sancerre, try Currently, beautiful and sustainably made California Sauvignon Blanc in an aluminum bottle. It’s less than $25 a bottle, with less of a carbon footprint than a traditional bottle thanks to it’s lightweight aluminum.
If you really just love Sancerre and want my favorites, here are a few.
Lucien Crochet $ - is solid “house wine”. There are many Crochets in Sancerre, and this one is my favorite. Their vineyards contain the quintessential Loire valley “Oxfordian limestones ‘caillottes’ and ‘griottes,’ offering generous minerality balancing the herbaceousness and fruit.
Alphonse Mellot $$ -makes the most popular wines by the bottle at The Modern. They’ve been making wine in Sancerre for something like a dozen generations, and they’ve perfected it in that time. These wines have beautiful freshness and balance, and are the ultimate crowd pleaser.
Domaine Vacheron $$$ - is the absolute top of my list. The wines have texture beyond just typical Sauvignon Blanc acidity. Whereas most Sancerre producers are based in and around the capital city of Chavignol, Vacheron is way out there, uniquely positioned with its own gorgeous terroir.
Really helpful and informative!